Откуда берут волосы для наращивания - статья Times с русскоязычными "подсказками"

Can hair extensions (наращивание волос) be ethical?

Virtually (почти) every female celebrity (женщина-знаменитость) has succumbed to the lure (поддавалась соблазну) of the oomph-giving hair extension ([сделать] придающее шарма наращивание волос). But what has generated a wide media story (спровоцировало широкое освещение в СМИ) is the origin (происхождение) of the hair that is being used.
Four years ago, the deputy director of Moscow’s Centre for Prison Reform confirmed (подтвердил) that some prison wardens (тюремные надзиратели) were shaving inmates’ heads (головы обитателей) as a way of earning extra cash, while (а) the editor (редактор) of the ethical shopping directory (справочника по этичному шоппингу) The Good Shopping Guide had reports of asylum patients’ hair (волосах пациентов психиатрических лечебниц) being sold to extension companies (компаниям, предлагающим услуги наращивания).
It’s a hot topic (актуальная тема), and one that the pop star Jamelia has embraced (здесь: использовала) in the upcoming (предстоящем) BBC documentary (документальном фильме) Whose Hair Is It Anyway?, which examines (исследует) the origins of hair used for extensions in the UK. Her inquiries (расследование) take her on a journey from (заставило ее отправиться в путь от) a nightclub in Essex to Moscow, where a shifty-looking (подозрительный) hair dealer explains that he has collectors (сборщики [волос]) all over Russia who source (здесь: поставляют) hair for him. Despite insisting that (не смотря на заявления о том, что) the hair comes only from reputable (уважаемых) sources, and none of it is taken from the dead, the margin for error (предел погрешности) seems wide. That’s not to mention (не говоря о) the fact that, on visiting rural (сельские) parts of the country, you see posters offering £20 for a whole head of hair — a price that begs (здесь: подтверждает) the question as to whether donors are being exploited.
Jamelia’s research also takes her on a second journey, from a forensics lab (лаборатории судебной экспертизы) in this country to a Hindu temple (индуистского храма) in India. There, she finds that some women are only too happy to sacrifice (пожертвовать) their hair. “It was a month that changed my life,” says the singer. “Never had I placed so much importance on hair. I wanted to find out what these women were like and why they would give their hair.” (я никогда не придавала такого значения волосам. Мне хотелось выяснить, что это за женщины, и почему они хотят отдать волосы)
As Jamelia discovers (открыла), in certain (определенных) parts of India, women sacrifice (жертвуют) their hair as an offering (подношение/дар) to the deities (богам), a process known as tonsuring (постриг). She witnesses (она была свидетелем того, как) them visiting a temple in Chennai, where their heads are shaved by a man wielding a cut-throat razor (с опасным лезвием в руках). She is told that the women hope the act will bring them good fortune (удачу) — whether finding a husband or just keeping a roof over their heads. Of course, they don’t know their hair is being sold on to extensions manufacturers — a fact the singer finds incredible (неправдоподобным/неслыханным), until she discovers (пока она не узнала) that the high priest (верховный жрец) redirects (перенаправляет) the money back into the community (общину), using it to feed the local homeless population (чтобы кормить местное бездомное население).
Such acts at least (по меньшей мере) give our western vanity a benevolent gloss (придают западному тщеславию некоторый глянец добродетели). It is through the tonsuring process that the extensions company Great Lengths sources its hair, from the Tirumala Hindu temple in Andhra Pradesh. It prides itself on (она гордится тем, что) having its own factories and a full-time employee in India, who ensures (следит за тем, чтобы) the money is channelled back (направлялись) into the community to fund (на финансирование) schools, orphanages (детских домов) and hospitals.
“Hair has a cuticle (тонкую пленку) that runs from root to tip (от корня к кончикам),” says David Gold, the founder (основатель) of Great Lengths. “The hair extension (удлиняющий компонент) has to be attached in the same direction as the natural hair (должен быть присоединен в том же направлении, что и родной волос), or (иначе) it will tangle (спутываться).” As hair provided through tonsuring is taken in one go (поскольку волосы, срезаемые при постриге, отрезаются за один раз), it is easy to ensure that it all runs in the same direction (легко добиться того, чтобы все они лежали в одном и том же направлении), making it easier for the wearer to manage (облегчая их будущему «хозяину» процесс укладки). Hence (таким образом), the matted tangles (спутанных клубков/петель) are avoided (удается избежать).
Sadly, such ethical hair extensions are still in the minority (в меньшинстве), so rigorous probing (тщательное расследование) is a must (настоятельная необходимость). “It is important to push the shop- or salon-owner to ask exactly where the hair came from and, if they don’t know, to take your business elsewhere,” says Jamelia. “We mustn’t think only about ourselves.”